Win Son

Win Son opened in May 2016 on the corner of Montrose and Graham in East Williamsburg, funded on Kickstarter by Josh Ku, a former property manager from Queens, and Trigg Brown, a chef who had cooked at Upland and Craft. They met at a barbecue in Bed-Stuy, bonded over Taiwan's food, and went to Tainan to research before they opened. Ryan Sutton gave it two stars in Eater and called it one of the city's most thrilling meals.

The room is plain on purpose: creaky wood floors, exposed brick, a concrete bar and hip-hop on the speakers. The cooking is not plain at all. The 'nutritious sandwich' is a fried bun with a butter-grilled shrimp patty and pickled pineapple. The oyster omelet is soft eggs, Beausoleil oysters and sweet-potato starch. Fly's head is ground pork with Thai chile, garlic chives and fermented black beans. There is lu rou fan, stinky tofu, and a lamb zha jiang mian Sutton called one of the city's best and funkiest bologneses. Dessert is vanilla ice cream in the same fried bun, under cilantro and peanuts.

The oyster omelet is soft eggs, Beausoleil oysters and sweet-potato starch.

Drink the cocktails, which are written for the food: the chiña colada with rum, cilantro, basil and coconut, or the Breakfast of Champions with peanut milk and black sesame.

Sit at the bar if you can. It is a very good night out, and nobody will ask you to dress for it.

Text to ask.