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Nolita · Business dinner

Torrisi

Torrisi on Mulberry Street
Photograph: Jim.henderson, Wikimedia Commons

Torrisi is Rich Torrisi's return to the name he made with Torrisi Italian Specialties, a sandwich counter that grew a set menu and closed in 2015. The new Torrisi Bar and Restaurant opened on December 1, 2022 inside the Puck Building on Mulberry Street, the landmarked nineteenth-century building named for the satirical magazine. His Major Food Group partners had moved to Miami; Torrisi stayed and called this his most personal project.

It is grander than anything that came before it: an emerald-green room with vaulted ceilings, marble floors and tablecloths, a 35-seat bar, a 40-seat dining room and, a first for the group, an open kitchen. The point was a New York state of mind in Italian-American cooking, and the menu reads that way: cucumbers New Yorkese, linguine with Manhattan clams, short rib rubbed in pastrami spice, a San Gennaro bao. Pete Wells gave it three stars and found the cooking subtler than the room, singling out the charred clam boule, the Dover sole Francese and the duck alla Mulberry.

For a client dinner, it does the work: a serious room, a menu with stories in it, and nobody asking you to perform.

The wine list is the kind that pours Gaja and Sassicaia by the glass for the table that wants to make a point, with more modest bottles beside them. The Martinis and Negronis are made with precision.

For a client dinner, it does the work: a serious room, a menu with stories in it, and nobody asking you to perform. The night's specials are listed in each dining room.

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