Carbone

Carbone opened in March 2013 at 181 Thompson Street, in the old Rocco space, from Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi and Jeff Zalaznick, the partners who became Major Food Group. Rocco had been on that block for almost a century; Carbone kept its sign, which did not delight everyone. The idea was the midcentury red-sauce palace, reimagined: the floor pattern taken from a scene in The Godfather, walls painted an unearthly blue, art hung by Vito Schnabel, and Dean Martin overhead.

The captains wear burgundy tuxedos and speak in the register of a film. Dinner opens with chunks of Parmesan and Grandma bread. The rigatoni in a chile-flecked tomato and vodka sauce is the dish the city still talks about; Robert Sietsema wrote that he could still taste it. There is a tableside Caesar, baked clams three ways, a ribeye Diana, and a veal parmesan the size of the plate that the critics enjoyed arguing about. Dessert is theatre too: bananas Foster set alight beside the table, carrot cake, limoncello and grappa to finish.

To drink, Eater suggested the room's own era: a Gibson, a Mai Tai, an Old Fashioned.

To drink, Eater suggested the room's own era: a Gibson, a Mai Tai, an Old Fashioned. The wine list runs through Italian and American bottles and reaches into four figures with a few French names.

It is loud on purpose and expensive without apology. Bring a big table of people who will enjoy the show, and book well ahead or go late.

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