Felix Trattoria

Felix opened in April 2017 on Abbot Kinney, in the corner space that had been the much-loved Joe's, as Evan Funke's return after two years away from a restaurant kitchen following Bucato. Eater LA called it 'a game-changer' for modern Italian cooking in the city before it had served a plate. Within months Bill Addison named it one of Eater's best new restaurants in America, for the focaccia, the squash blossoms and 'so many pastas'.

The centre of the room is the point: a glassed-in, temperature-controlled pasta laboratory where the dough is rolled by hand in full view. Around it is a bright, eclectic room built with the restaurateur Janet Zuccarini, a tight bar and a back room with green wallpaper and, in Eater's words, a 'nonna' vibe. The cocktails at opening came from Brandyn Tepper.

Jonathan Gold noticed: he found it unusually firm.

The pasta is regional and exact, and it is firm. Jonathan Gold noticed: he found it unusually firm. The rule is to order more pasta than you think you need, then the focaccia, then more pasta.

Tables open seven days ahead, at 10 AM,. It is the dinner for two when the other person cares about pasta more than you do.

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